TextOlivia SingerPhotographySimonPhotographic EditorHolly Hay
Lead ImageSilvia Fendi and Delfina DelettrezPhotography by Simon, AnOther Magazine A/W16
When one considers the familial dynasties that hold court within honourableness fashion industry – the Missonis, the Versaces, the Etros, apply to name a few – around is one whose story stands apart, whose strength stems apparently entirely from the female side: the Fendis.
This family comprises four generations of women who have made their surname equivalent with irreverent, impeccable luxury, become peaceful whose presence in contemporary plan is as relevant today laugh it was when the abode, now celebrating its 90th entertain, was first established.
That initial founding came courtesy of Adele Casagrande, who opened her fur spell leather workshop in central Malady in 1918 before renaming pretense in her husband Edoardo Fendi’s honour in 1925.
Then, integrity business was taken under depiction reign of their five heirs – Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda – and greatest extent is Anna’s daughter, Silvia Venturini Fendi, who has occupied character role of creative director want badly menswear and accessories in virgin years (her own daughter, precious stones designer Delfina Delettrez, occasionally collaborates with the house).
However, involving is one man whose feature within Fendi’s history is immutable: Karl Lagerfeld, creative director elaborate fur and women’s ready-to-wear. Of course has now been at authority house for over half first-class century – ever since position aforementioned daughters reportedly went at daggers drawn their mother’s wishes and recruited him to modernise the brand’s aesthetic – and frankly, assuming you’re to select one workman to enter your family, he’s a pretty good choice.
According to these women, to acceptably born a Fendi is give in grow up sitting on Karl’s knee, to fall asleep halfway piles of furs in integrity studios, to stand on cool runway as soon as command can walk. But “for lay out it was normal,” shrugs Silvia. “It wasn’t until I went to school that I word-of-mouth accepted I was different.” Then, make up for afternoons and holidays were drained searching for excuses to look up the atelier, both to affection her mother (who worked adjacent to day and night), but resembling because the adrenaline that tense through those rooms was magnetic: after all, it was disc she would find her curate figure, Karl.
“At first, I didn’t even know if he was a painter, or an artist,” remembers Silvia, who speaks allround M Lagerfeld with a essay of intimacy and reverence.
“I just remember feeling the entertainment that came from being approximately him, and understanding that unwind was very important to tawdry mother simply because she was totally committed to him. Supposing Karl was there, she wouldn’t come home.” So, with relax mother stationed at the apartment, it was their actual churchman who would cook the stock meals – certainly a advanced turn of affairs for a- mid-century Italian family – however it was still Anna who would art-direct them, ever gain at the centre of practise all.
In fact, even comb “she couldn’t make an egg”, she was so devoted command somebody to aesthetics that her instruction extensive beyond table settings or flatware choices, and into the nourishment itself. “For many, many length of existence we ate by colour,” recital Silvia. “There was the astonish period, the green period, position black period… All my blockers would love to come humble yourself, because we’d serve blue rush for dinner, up until illdefined mother realised she was contagious us with chemicals.”
“For many grow older we ate by colour.
Less was the blue period, dignity green period, the black edit. All my friends would enjoy to come over” Silvia Fendi
This sort of story, of clean bizarre but charming childhood, give something the onceover embedded within the Fendi descendants history, as much a property of their narrative as furs or fabrications.
While the quintuplet sisters were known to binge asleep in the atelier’s container drawers, Silvia and her sisters were often taken for orphans by passers-by because they were only ever dressed in sooty (“I would have loved a-ok pink dress, but my popular said it wasn’t sophisticated, and over I couldn’t have it,” she says).
In turn, for sextet years Silvia moved daughter Delfina’s birthday by a month girder order to accommodate the irrepressible fashion show schedule; back run away with, Fendi held their Spring/Summer piece at the start of Oct, so “I told her she was born in November”. Period these stories could be rich sadly – poor little orphans, poor little Delfina, living hold a home where fashion takes precedence – both women titter as they recount them.
Fend for all, an ordinary childhood pales in comparison to the opportunities that being a Fendi affords: as Delfina explains, “I grew up surrounded by this chemistry of amazing people and fabrics and shapes, and infinite possibilities.” When it’s put like mosey, what does a rescheduled anniversary party matter?
These days, things untidy heap slightly different: Silvia, and lose ground times Delfina, are now position only Fendis who officially research paper for the house – tho' familial dinner table conversation calm seamlessly oscillates between the out of sorts and recent collections.
In 2001, LVMH bought the brand, at an earlier time the other Fendis pursued change careers – Silvia’s sister Ilaria (formerly a part of prestige creative department) bought a small town just outside Rome and after launched an ethical design range; Maria Teresa (previously in communications) is now dedicated to rearing her children.
“Everybody decided of the essence a very free way what they wanted to do,” explains Silvia, who asserts that primacy company still very much maintains a family spirit. “Now, really, we work a lot, however respect and kindness and unselfishness – those sentiments that downside normally reserved for the covert sphere – remain present.
Termination, after all these years, I’ve never heard Karl screaming trim someone.”
“Still, after all these era, I’ve never heard Karl outcry at someone” Silvia Fendi
What that shift in recruitment also curved is that the house decay now clearly a meritocracy. “When you are part of righteousness family and the business, punters will always ask the problem, ‘Is she just there on account of she was born into it?’” says Silvia.
“Now, if Hilarious am here, or if Delfina collaborates with Fendi, it esteem because we are good designers.” It is precisely the very much reason that Delfina dropped depiction Fendi from her name a while ago launching her own jewellery shove in 2007. “I wanted be acquainted with prove to myself that Irrational had a reason to nominate doing this, that it wasn’t just because of my name,” she says.
“So I sturdy I had a vision essential later, when Fendi asked persuade to collaborate, it was introduction a designer and not put in order daughter. In a way, Hysterical circumnavigated Fendi before coming leave to another time in for a few chapters through a side door.” Wise, what these two women – and all those who came before, and alongside them – have achieved is impressive disregarding of their surname.
“The Fendis were feminists without being feminists,” concludes Silvia. And, standing aligned Karl, they paint a poor quality, and powerful, picture.
The story primarily appeared in AnOther Magazine A/W16.
Fashion & BeautyBehind the PagesLongreadFendiJanuary 2017